inspire me

" i am lost, i am lost / in the robes of all this light ..." ~ sylvia plath

* color homage silhouette texture shape pattern zeitgeist accessory lines classic studded rock-and-roll bohemian streamlined avant-garde *

Thursday, August 19, 2010

A Ladylike Fall (Not from Grace, but Into Place)

Never Underestimate the Humor, Strength, Brilliance
and Grit of a True Lady

"This is why I don't allow crying in the breakroom. It erodes morale. There's a place to do that, like your apartment." - Joan Harris nee Holloway (Christina Hendricks) on Mad Men

Greetings from a steamy mid-August Connecticut!


Speaking of the heat, I've finally dragged myself into this sweatbox of a study to address a topic I love: fall dressing. Autumn in New England is a thing of absolutely inexpressible beauty, and so is the gorgeous style that accompanies it every year. Fall 2010 fashion is surging forth with (an even more aggressive than last year) devotion to throw-back lady-like chic - the usual doses of sharp, clean lines, equestrian whimsy, and the "new" power-dressing that appears to borrow heavily from librarian/secretary sartorial sensibilities. Editorials are bursting with wasp waists and genteel pumps in the most vivid of colors - celebrating the multitudes of the female form and all of its electrifying curves- and I love this. The look fits anyone, and is like a modern, confident, supremely polished declaration of competence and self-respect: "Not only am I capable and informed, but I know I look good ... and yes, I meant to match my lipstick to my heels, and my earrings to my brooch."
I suppose that, as an idealistic young teacher, the fall season holds a special charm for me - it's a chance to start over fresh, to be efficient, effective, creative, and dynamic. As noted in my last post, I've always clearly enjoyed the rigors of the school year. Because I am a nerd. And I am swooning over these glorified geeky, esoterically empowering, sexy ensembles that imply intelligence and connote charisma - with a dash of pearl accessories. And perhaps a purse with a long chain strap.

Like so many fellow nerds, and for that matter most of the American public, I have developed a passionate obsession with AMC's runaway hit Mad Men, and I worship unabashedly at the shrine of Joan. I won't re-hash the adoring odes of countless blogs, articles, and Mattel Barbie homages (I want one, but am too broke to justify the purchase), but suffice it to say that this 1960s vixen of an office manager is the picture of savvy and cool. Joan is constantly lauded for her no less than swerving curves and her ability to dress with total power and panache. Her body-conscious, structured dresses are usually vibrant or jewel-toned hues - sapphire, emerald, ruby, teal, violet, fuschia - and her separates have been to the tailor's before ever touching her sacrosanct skin. Her fiery updo is always flawless and her makeup is pristine. (I had great success scoring a J-wannabe sapphire shift at Macy's!)
Yet what really draws so many of us to Joan is her swagger - a term that generally drives me crazy (I do teach 7th and 8th grade English at an urban school, and the term invariably works its way into essays on Fitzgerald), but that's just what it is. Joan - all while dropping alarmingly charming bon mots and good-bad advice and referencing Ibsen plays - is a "boss lady" who knows the ins and outs of her office and is adept at reading people. She is organized, highly intelligent, gorgeous, and socially in demand, and she dresses herself with exuberance. She doesn't dwell on, apologize for, or whimper over any possible "faults" of her figure or style, but rather flaunts her assets and enjoys her outfits/coiffure every day. Certainly, Joan can be cutting and nasty, telling men she's dated the cold, hard truth about themselves in her devastatingly feminine and authoritative voice, but as she has said, "What part is wrong?..." This tough-as-nails woman does, however, have a vulnerable humanity that makes her character so intriguing. (She bursts into tears when Sterling Cooper's employees present her with a goodbye cake; she's not immune to falling for an impossible man ... not to mention a brutal secret between herself and her seemingly perfect doctor husband.)
Check out http://whatwouldjoando.tumblr.com/, an awesome blog that celebrates J.
There's something so charismatic about stunningly beautiful female characters who exude sometimes-offputting strength and vanity, yet have undeniable capacities for love and passion. (Perhaps they're all Scorpios.) Scarlett O'Hara, the quintessential belle of the ball, never had an antebellum ribbon or curl out of place, and prided herself on minimum inches (waist in corset) and maximum layers (ruffles over hoop skirt). Yet when wartime hit Tara and the South with the force of a hurricane, she got her hands dirty, stole herself a man with a viable business, shot a scavenger soldier, and fashioned an iconic gown out of some dusty curtains. I'd venture to say that, while many, many scholars, academics, stuff-shirts and haters at large (you know the type I mean) tend to judge/scorn girlish preening and self-adornment, no one can deny the incendiary force of a lady. A lady who loves, desires, schemes, thinks, feels deeply, revels in fabrics, colors, silhouettes, trinkets, and is always aware of the powerful combinations she can create. No matter that I'm not personally a terribly nasty person (my husband would probably be able to construct a decent case against that statement), I am - we all are - like moths to the flame when it comes to to these glamorous, often emotionally and mentally hard-core ladies. Hell on heels, indeed.
Traditonally, this persona is often a calculating sort, like my beloved Blair Waldorf, who could probably give Scarlett a run for her money in terms of dreaming, scheming, and style. Here's B on her first day of college, decked out in a garnet garment and Alexis Bittar jewels. Blair's mix of hardness (she can be really mean), passion and vulnerability is totally winning on-screen. Her fashion skills, though, are 100% formidable, straight no chaser. Here's a girl who never gets caught with dirty hair, snot-nosed allergies and a pit-stained wifebeater, squinting through her hours-old weed-high at an ex-boyfriend she's run into at a local CVS. (Just a random scenario .)
Although I began this entry eager to ramble about a specific, supremely confident, sometimes self-aggrandizing, ego-driven, and occasionally villainous vixen of a lady, my tongue is in my cheek, friends. Of course the true adulation goes to real-life class acts - like our First Lady Michelle Obama, whose poise and altruism and joyful personal style have earned her tons of accolades. She's always beautiful and ready to take care of business. Examples: vibrant jewel-toned shift: check; buttoned-up blazer, check; amazing camel coat and matching skirt, che-heck!....
All of this inspires me as a new school year begins. My lovely friend and fellow teacher S, a willowy, model-esque stunner and over-achiever, observed the other day that no amount of ambition, drive, or killer clothing means a thing without grace. Grace, to me, means living with purpose and compassion, treating others kindly, and following your heart at all times. In my line of work, that means trying to faciliate rich conversations about literature with tweens, exhaustively red-penning kids' writing, grading ad nauseum and drilling for standardized test material. With coffee-breath and, once in a while, a Tuna-In-A-Bag snack exploding into the face during lunch. Not terribly glamorous stuff, but the modus operandi of the New Lady is to take pride in her work and her role at all times - whether it's ruling the secretarial pool, tackling the State Department of Labor, or yapping about the difference between your and you're.
So I'm leaping into fall with Joan's work ethic and Michelle's generosity of spirit, hoping to be my strongest, most powerful self .
But if you wanted more snarkiness, here's a Bitchy Lady How-To, inspired by the more villainous of the lady-like chicks.
How to Be a Modern, Powerful Lady, a la Joan, Blair, et al:
(with some key wish-list items for Fall '10)
1. Be passionate - and honest - about your goals. Know what you want so you can go about getting it. Relentlessly.
(Black leather opera gloves, perfect for a film-noir night out)http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/as/aspinal-of-london-ladies-opera-gloves.jpg
2. Do not venture into bohemian/crunchy/art-groupie-wannabe territory. Nobody wants to smell your head-grease. Ever. Be constantly clean and meticulously groomed. (Uhh, again, aforementioned CVS/ex-boyfriend scenario is purely hypothetical.)
3. Put your best assets forward. Know what hairstyle, makeup, and clothing work for you - and make them your signature.
4. Don't ever apologize for being yourself - and don't take shit. The day is too short and the night is for fun.
5. Know. How. To. Flirt.
(Beautifully constructed, structured black day-bag with just enough hardware - Dolce and Gabanna) http://www.pursepage.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/dolce-and-gabbana-miss-sicily-quilted-handbag.jpg
6. Know your work inside out and push yourself to excel. Competence is beautiful.
7. ... Seriously though ... although MSW loves a bitchy gal ... try to be gracious and kind. Most of us aren't starring in an epic drama or a splashy soap series. Don't take it all so seriously - pursue your passions with humor, love, and your beautiful smile.
(Keira Knightley in the season's ubiquitous, wear-it-and-be-happy camel coat: http://images.teamsugar.com/files/upl1/0/3987/44_2008/972b1a5a794660ba_Keira_Knightley.jpg )
8. ... Oh, and I suppose a gold-plated pen necklace - to keep you punctual and organized - can't hurt. Remember to write down any glib one-liners that might come in handy when vanquishing the rare adversary you encounter.
Tally-ho: into the fall I go, hoping to take just a little of my own jocular advice - because a true lady knows that no matter what, she is always following her dreams.
xo - MSW

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Scholastic (Fantastic) Achievement

Subversive School Girl Chic Can Be Magical and Masterful - Not Meek


Happy 2010! I'm sure that your life (and Facebook page), like mine, is being inundated with "Top," "Countdown," and "Best" Lists - not only of the year, but this time of the entire bloody DECADE. That seems unfair somehow -- as though both academia and popular culture get to come together like party guests who usually detest one another, gloating drunkenly, intertwining their fingers and breakin' it down to hook up for an epic dance-off that includes absolutely everything you could think of. A glorious amalgamation. Another decade has passed.

As for yours truly - well, I've made some strong personal resolutions. Things like, stop making bodily function jokes all the time, at the most inopportune moments ... just do the dishes without politicking along the way ... find more reasons to laugh and fewer reasons to stress ... watch more movies and read more books ....

I am a strong believer in devoting a substantial amount of the winter-time to aggressive, fervent relaxation / New England hibernation involving blankets, steaming beverages, and pajamas. In that spirit, I recently watched both Reservation Road (Joaquin Phoenix, Mark Ruffalo - made me decide to never text while driving or take my loved ones for granted ever again) and Revolutionary Road (reunited Kate Winslet, Leonardo DiCaprio - made me decide to never go back in time to the 1950s, should I encounter the DeLorean, or fight with my loved ones ever again). Both were crushingly dark, painfully real, thought-provoking, and beautifully tragic. I loved Frank McCourt's Teacher Man, so I also finally got around to reading Angela's Ashes, which was, while certainly another stunning affirmation of life and of the human spirit, terribly depressing. In summation: three works; an alliterative rush of devastation.

The reason I have all this time to catch up on my leisure activities lies in two gorgeous words: Winter Break. As a teacher, I get to luxuriate from Christmas Eve until Monday, January 4th, in not working and still getting paid. Is it a wildly productive time? Ha. (I'm writing this blog entry while warily eyeing a massive pile of grading that I get to simply refuse, like it's the smarmy, wasted guy at the bar who asks every girl about her ethnic background while breathing his SoCo garlic breath all over the place.) But it's a time where there is some time. As a result, I've finally had the spare moments to start reading Junot Diaz's Pulitzer-winning novel, The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao.

It's beyond fantastic.

Consider the blurb: "Oscar is a sweet but disastrously overweight ghetto nerd, a New Jersey romantic who dreams of becoming the Dominican J.R.R. Tolkien and, most of all, finding love. But Oscar may never get what he wants. Blame the fuku - a curse that has haunted Oscar's family for generations, following them on their epic journey from the Dominican Republic to the United States and back again." It doesn't at all begin to do justice to this sprawling, manic, sensitive, heartbreaking book.

It occurred to me that I encountered Diaz's work (short story collection called Drown) when I was that most guileless, ingenuous and suggestible of creatures: a school-girl. Granted, you couldn't find me clad in one of Gossip Girl's meticulous, immaculate and tricked-out private school uniforms or anything close. I was in college, and you would more likely find me with long, dirtyish hair and some ill-fitting wanna-be vintage "frock." Mea culpa - I was a self-styled bohemian (read: pothead).

School Days, School Days! The Original Days of Judgement! Dear old Golden Rule Days!

But seriously, there is a kind of magical je ne sais quois that surrounds schoolgirls and their untold possibility. Without wandering into the trite and inevitable porno context (I won't! I really won't!...), it's clear that this class of human (at least in the sartorial world) possesses a certain allure. They are innocent yet can be crazy-wild; naughty (girls just want to have fun) yet pristine. What I find most intriguing is the fact that school girls, and students at large, have something truly special: the vast expanse of information that lies at the mercy of their learning. Learning and intellect are a business. As Frank McCourt's old schoolmaster used to chant, "Stock your minds! They are your own. Stock your minds!" And it doesn't hurt to look rather natty and dapper while you're at it.
You know by now that I, like many Gen-Xers and Gen-XYers (and plenty of our moms), love me some GG, but this phenomenon is older than Serena Van der Woodsen, Anne of Green Gables, or Becky Thatcher. What is it about a young lady going about her learning with lioness-like ferocity (and often a good dose of sensuality) that inspires such yearning in others? How appealing is a fresh, white-collared shirt, wool skirt, and a menswear tie when you feel like the world has had its way with you, and you're ready to fight back? Right now women are CEOs, astronauts, professors, entrepeneurs - but before we broke through the glass ceiling, school was at the very least one of the only venues of fair game, where a girl could gird her intellectual loins and sally forth with all the swagger and determination of any boy. School is business time. Don't hate just because nowadays, the blouse is more flattering, the boots more fierce, and the blazer cut at a razor-sharp angle. (There's a fine line, of course, between overt sexual brazenness and cool, studied "can't touch this" impenetrability - literally. School-girl dressing past the age of eighteen is, on a style level, I believe, an exercise in proportion, intention, and restraint.)

But there are some levels of sheer cuteness that even the most hard-core Feminist Theorist could be pressed to appreciate. Anime fans will remember the mini-skirted, conflict-ridden posse from Sailor Moon. These girls were mere demerit-earners by day, but terrific crime-fighters by night. Their femininity, as you can see in the photo, belies their ferociousness.


Let's say you hate all this cutesy Hello-Kitty fluffy crap, and you want something more gangster. (Studies show that "gangster shit" is one of the highest-ranked search
topics amongst the demograpic of median-range earners ages 17-25.) Well, look no further than GoGo. Yes, film buffs - from director Quentin Tarantino's Kill Bill is the merciless 17-year-old body guard/assassin for O Ren Ishii (Lucy Liu), leader of the Yakuza clan in Tokyo, Japan. Chiaki Kuriyama played this delightfully diabolical character, clad in the classic white knee-socks, pristine gym shoes, tartan skirt, and insignia-emblazoned jacket of the School Girl.

She swings a giant, lethal mace, giggles innocuously before she splices your skull open, and lets out a barbaric war cry. She seduces sloppy older men only to leave them dismembered and blood-soaked in a hotel room, then skips off to algebra class, where she also presumably kicks ass. ....... Sweet.
Gangster enough?

High fashion clearly reverberates with echoes of the past at all times, and here are some of its academic-inspired offerings in the school-girl style:

These Hermione-like, whimsical creations are from Charles Anastase, a young designer who studied Political Science at the Lycee Charlemagne in Paris. He was an illustrator before launching a fashion design career. CHARLES ANASTASE, SPRING 2009-12-18

At the end of the day, whether it's knee socks, bright headbands, crisp blazers, snow-white button-downs or cheeky little ties, it's really the surge of nostalgia this look brings upon me. I know how hard a serious school-girl works because I've been there. As a teacher, I also know how much work I pile on my students, and I see the strong among them rise to the challenge and keep on rising. The cerebral world is a jungle like any other, and only the fittest survive. I respect the hustle of a serious school-girl. She's there to learn, pick up some business skills, apply her hard-won savvy, and pursue her most treasured creative and mental endeavors.
And what is true learning without kicking some serious ass?

Here's to all of your goals, both style-wise and wise, with style, in 2010.
xo MSW